The rise and fall of Sizzler: A nostalgic journey through time

It had the cheese toast, the all-you-can-eat salad bar and the sizzling steaks that would have Aussie mouths watering come Friday night.

But Sizzler, the cultural phenomenon of the ‘80s and ’90s suddenly seemed out of date at the turn of the millennium with the iconic, all-you-can-eat restaurant chain closing for good in 2020.

Experts say it simply failed to adapt to a rapidly-changing Australia and the brand’s demise started long before Covid hit.

The beginnings of a dining revolution

The Sizzler story began in 1958 when Del and Helen Johnson opened the first Sizzler Family Steak House in Culver City, California.

Offering a steak meal for just $US0.99, Sizzler quickly became a favourite among diners seeking quality food at affordable prices.

Sizzler’s plan, according to current company president Chris Perkins, was to home in on the rapid success of McDonalds — and later In-N-Out – which, with its two-way speaker box, revolutionised America’s fast food industry and offered a respite from the drudgery of cooking at home.

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The American buffet with up-market ambitions was once a suburban novelty.

Ken Fawcett and Janet Fawcett at Sizzlers Darwin in 1991.

Sizzler Restaurant General Manager Angela Fordham in 2009.

“Del Johnson realised that you could have a McDonald’s burger or go to a diner or full service diner. There wasn’t something in the middle at a lower price, where you order at the counter, then have the food brought to your table,” he told media outlet SFGATE.

“Johnson was the godfather of fast-casual restaurants that exist today. Because of the model, the restaurant was able to keep its prices low.”

In 1985, Sizzler made its Australian debut in Brisbane’s suburb of Annerley, thanks to Kevin Perkins of Collins Foods.

Its unique offering of stand-alone steak houses with all-you-can-eat buffets quickly captured the hearts of Australians nationwide and the dessert bar, where children could concoct their own sweet creations, became a staple of family dining experiences.

By 1992, Sizzler had expanded to 74 locations across Australia, marking the height of its popularity.

The golden era of casual dining

During the ‘90s, Sizzler thrived as casual dining surged amid a recession.

Fast food giants like KFC, Pizza Hut, and McDonald’s were also expanding, but Sizzler carved out a niche with its service-value-quality equation.

As Mr Perkins noted in 1992: “The consumer of the ‘90s… wants more for less… that’s why Sizzler has been so successful.”

The chain became a cultural icon, with long queues often seen outside its doors.

It was a place where families gathered, friends celebrated, and diners enjoyed the simplicity of a warm buffet and cold salad bar.

Sizzler’s all you can eat salad bar was a hit with customers.

A Sizzler steak with lobster tails in seafood sauce, accompanied by chips was a crowd favourite.

Shifting tastes and challenges

However, as the millennium approached, the dining landscape began to shift.

Millennials brought different preferences, seeking fresher, healthier options and a more sophisticated dining experience.

The rise of cafe culture, American-themed diners like Lone Star and TGI Fridays, and diverse food courts offered new choices that overshadowed Sizzler’s offerings.

By the early 2010s, Sizzler faced challenges as underperforming stores closed.

By 2017, only 17 remained, primarily in Queensland.

The pandemic of 2020 dealt the final blow, with hygiene concerns around buffets leading to closures of the final nine restaurants, leaving 600 employees without work.

Sizzler Townsville restaurant manager Sang Ho with the famous cheesy bread. Picture: Fiona Harding

The famous Sizzler cheese bread recipe.

In its statement to shareholders, Collins Foods said the performance of the remaining Sizzler restaurants had been under “constant review” since 2015, from which the firm decided the one-time family favourite was no longer “core to the Company’s strategic growth”.

In business terms, this meant Sizzler’s cheesy bread was left to grow stale as only stores making profit were left open.

Today, iconic locations have transformed into daycare centres, libraries, and warehouses, while others remained vacant.

Lessons from the past

Despite its decline, Sizzler’s legacy remains a testament to the ever-changing nature of dining trends.

As Suzee Brain of Titanium Food noted: “Food is like fashion. Ever changing.”

Generational shifts in preferences, the rise of home delivery, and the emergence of ‘dark’ kitchens reflect the dynamic nature of the industry.

David Mallon, director of Future Food, highlighted that Sizzler’s unwillingness to adapt to local market changes contributed to its downfall.

Rising costs and reduced purchasing power further strained the brand.

Sizzler staff members Andrew Dash with Stephanie Riddell, Leanne Magalong and Clarke Poto. Picture: Chris Higgins

Sizzler’s full page advertisement announcing scrapping of plans to import 120 tonnes of US beef after backlash from customers in 1994.

Could Sizzler make a comeback in Australia?

For those who remember the joy of dining at Sizzler, the memories linger.

The cheesy toast, the bustling buffet, and the shared moments with loved ones remain etched in the hearts of many.

While Sizzler continues to operate in the US and Puerto Rico, its absence in Australia serves as a reminder of the fleeting nature of cultural phenomena.

Yet the question remains, could Sizzler make a comeback?

Could Sizzler be revived in Australia? Many certainly hope it might.

So far, Sizzler has remained tight-lipped on future business endeavours on Aussie soil but as the cost of living continues to rise, the demand for affordable dining options is more pertinent than ever.

Sizzler, with its legacy of offering value for money, could potentially find a new lease on life by adapting to the current economic climate and evolving consumer preferences.

A Brisbane radio station certainly agrees. It hotsed a one-night-only Sizzler pop-up event last year, where it brought back iconic dishes like cheese toast and salad bar options.

The event was a hailed a major success and certainly set tongues wagging. Could it be the start of a revival? Guess we’ll have to wait and see.